November 2007

Seed and Spirit of Modernism - An exploration through textiles

Foreword

When I started this project I had a rather general view of early modernism; I knew what a Bauhaus chair looked like; who Joseph Hoffman was and what Ben Nicholson represented. I had read Virginia Woolf, struggled with Proust and knew the difference between Jung and Freud.

For years when we exhibited Pre Columbian, African and Asian textiles, the comment would be, ‘how surprisingly modern’. I thought I knew what they meant and glowed a little, for in the last twenty years it has been difficult to surprise without being sensational. I thought that the Shock of the Old was far more stimulating than the “Shock of the New”. My view of the commercially-made product was not high.

Between the wars, however, the involvement of artists and designers - committed to the improvement of their society after the devastation of war - was exciting, diverse and controversial. Socialisms and industrialisation were hand in hand. New liberties for women and a slow awareness of racial injustice were coming to the surface. The Victorians and Edwardians were more out of influence and favour than the Egyptians. The polymath was influential.

In the twenties Johannes Itten commenced his Bauhaus classes with breathing exercises; Florence Hodgkin’s family was at the heart of the organic movement; Nancy Nicholson was on the road giving advice on contraception; Ashley Havindon was one of the pioneers of the advertising agency; Josephine Baker was highlighting racial injustice. While Ottoline Morrel was giving away her family inheritance for the sake of art, Picasso was asking us to look at familiar forms for a new beauty. In 1928, Francis Bacon was designing furniture, carpets and interiors. This was a time when art and industry merged, whether from idealism or survival. These people were not only modern and alternative in their day but would also qualify as such in ours.

In Paul Nash’s essay “The Meaning of Modern” ( 1932) he quotes Clive Bell’s definition of Modern as ‘to find meaning’. I hope that in looking at the textiles that are presented here, one will be able to judge, in some way, whether or not these artists and craftsmen succeeded in expressing this definition within their time.

I hope, also, that you may enjoy a glimpse at this period as much as we did while researching it.

Esther Fitzgerald
Hampstead
November 2007

The new catalogue is available for £14 plus Postage and Packing. Email your order here Thanks.

News Update: May 1st 2007

We have added two extra sections to the website; press and textiles under £400 hopefully these are
self explanatory.

San Francisco was thoroughly enjoyable ,since which I have had my head down doing research of one sort or another. At the moment I am particularly interested in an artist and embroiderer who worked in 20s and 30s in UK and in 40s in USA. Her name is Marion Stoll if anybody has any further information on her I would be very grateful to receive it.

We are in New York at the Tribal and Textile Show from 19-22nd May, with a group of new acquisitions including some Joseph Hoffman panels, some very interesting Turkish towels, some great energetic Ndop cloths and an extraordinary 1920’s embroidery which has kept me in libraries for at least the last month.

There will also be our usual mix of Japanese, Greek, Tibetan ,Indian ,African and Central Asian.

If you would like tickets for the show, as always they will be at the door under the name of Fitzgerald.
The dollar exchange has worried some of our American clients but in reality our expenses are less and very often the international currency in which we buy is dollars, so it may in-fact work out cheaper to buy from us in New York.

Nat Turner will be helping me in New York and we both look forward to seeing you there.

News update: 15 February 2006

We have decided to add a little on symbolism (and other things) to the glossary - I hope this will add clarity. You will be directed to the glossary from various catalogue entries. For this we thank Robin Saikia who is compiling it for us.

The irrepressible Nat Turner was so inspired by working with textiles that he has now set up in business on his own. You can find him at http://www.ruggedart.com.

Our other former assistant, Bihia Znibber, who was notorious for speaking five languages (but not Pikey!) has met the man of her dreams, so we're hoping business will continue to be good and enable us to go to their week-long wedding celebrations in Marrakech this summer.

In the meantime we are preparing for the spring Olympia, where we will be showing our new acquisitions (just added to the website). If you haven't received tickets to this, the usual system of leaving tickets at the door under the name Fitzgerald applies - so hope to see you there!

AOL has been very frustrating over the year, so we are changing our internet service provider. Please in future email us esther@estherfitzgerald.co.uk or robin@estherfitzgerald.co.uk.

Esther Fitzgerald.